From the hot and humid lowlands we headed once again to the cooler climes of the highlands, this time to Tari, home of the Huli Wigmen in Papua New Guinea.

The scenery on our charter flight from the Karawari to Tari in the southern highlands was beautiful, with rugged mountains and dense forest sliding beneath us most of the way. We landed in Tari and it was dramatically different to anything I had experienced so far. Here was a small but “proper” airport with a real landing strip. There was quite a crowd outside the gates of the airport and as we alighted, we were quickly assigned a young policeman who was proudly holding an IMI Galil assault rifle; it struck me that perhaps Tari was rather more edgy than other areas in Papua New Guinea. Indeed, we soon learned that nearly every man of the Huli tribe carries a machete around with him everywhere, which further intensified the feeling.

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