When Generosity and Greed set out to visit [Orccha], they saw a huge array of forts, towns, and villages – how could I possibly recount all their names.” These words were written scholar and poet Keshavdas in the 16th century, a time of the great Rudra Pratap Singh, King of Orchha. The economic and political majesty are now gone. What remains is a forgotten medieval capital in the heart of India’s Madhya Pradesh. A small town, scattered chhatris, and a towering fortress complex are Orchha’s legacy. It is in that hollow reverence that Orchha is so unique. As Keshavdas said of a lake, “It is marvelous, clear, vast, and profound in its depths.”

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